March 22, 2007
El Fogoncito - Beijing Branch
One of my girlfriends and I had dinner last night at El Fogoncito — it was terrible. I learned about it from that’s Beijing and it’s near her office so we decided to try a new place.
The place smelled like wet paint and the waitress told me “don’t sit upstairs, the stink is even worse up there.” We scrambled around for a good place to sit considering a spot near a door to diminish the paint smell but decided no, the draft was too bad.
We got some fajitas and tacos. They came with a tiny plate of weak sweet sauce, weak hot sauce, and awful guacamole (something from a jar? Yech!). As for the food itself, I can describe it in a word: GREASY! It was like fake Mexican food made by bad Chinese cooks; hang on, that’s exactly what it was. There were a couple of gratuitous authentic Mexican workers hanging around, but they weren’t in the open kitchen, that’s for sure. And my Corona wasn’t ice cold the way it should be.
Cost 155 kuai (about $20) - insult to injury. Definitely not recommended. Mantenganse lejos, mis amigos.
March 22nd, 2007 at 8:54 am
You should “make a run for the border” over to Taco Bell, though I’m not sure it would fare much better :>)
But its parent company does look tasty ;>)~
March 22nd, 2007 at 8:56 am
Chairman, are you spamming again? ;)
from that’s Beijing I get:
403 Forbidden
Please stop referer spam.
We have identified that you have been refered here by a known or supposed spammer.
————
what does ‘funcionar lejos’ mean?
March 22nd, 2007 at 9:03 am
Babak,
Happy new year to you :>)
It means “work away” or “work far” but I believe he meant to stay “stay away” which would be “estancia lejos”
“estancia lejos mis amigos” = “stay away my friends”
CM, correct me if I’m wrong.
I saw that spam notification too. Odd.
March 22nd, 2007 at 9:04 am
Amir: No Taco Bells in China (plenty of Pizza Huts and KFC’s though, YUM!), but that ain’t Mexican food either.
Babak: Yeah, the that’sBJ site does that, dunno why. Look it up.
March 22nd, 2007 at 9:19 am
Amir: Yeah, I meant “run away” but it looks like my 3rd grade Spanish failed me. Maybe I should update it to estancia so I look less stupid. ;-)
March 22nd, 2007 at 10:14 am
Thanks Amir :o)
CM, pick one (+’mis amigos’):
quedaos lejos…
ni lo piensen…
corred en la otra direccion…
March 22nd, 2007 at 10:27 am
I checked that place out, thought it was ok, burritos were nice. Its apparently a restaurant chain from Mexico, my friend knows the owner there.
Never tried tex-mex but mexican wave seems pretty good, mexican at steak and eggs is average, although my knowledge of mexican food is also pretty average :)
March 22nd, 2007 at 10:53 am
Tried the place when it opened (food was half price). The food wasn’t bad - the kitchen staff was Mexican (since returned to Mexico). Chinese staff, both wait and kitchen, was horrible. They’re opening a branch in Sanlitun in the fall, and are bringing back the staff from Mexico to open. It might be worth giving it another try then.
The best tacos I’ve had in China were outside John Bull, though I haven’t tried Tim’s Tex-Mex.
March 22nd, 2007 at 11:01 am
Nik: You have lower standards than me. :-( And I’ve never eaten at Mexican Wave while sober so I can’t tell you how it is. Been to Steak & Eggs once — too many foreigners there but my french toast and bacon wasn’t bad (overpriced of course).
K: No Mexicans in the kitchen this time, alas. Bad food at half the price is still bad. My girlfriend Joyce and I went to Tim’s Tex-Mex and were totally underwhelmed (and it was wildly overpriced of course).
March 22nd, 2007 at 12:30 pm
CM, mi amigo, ven a Puerto Vallarta. Fresh guacamole all year round. Summer is a bit warm though. Pacifico is the lager of choice.
March 22nd, 2007 at 12:32 pm
Zoomie: I envy you. No Pacifico in the Asia-Pacifico region, alas.
March 22nd, 2007 at 2:15 pm
Yeah I tried it when the mexican staff were making the food, maybe they didn’t teach the locals so good.
I thought steak and eggs was the best cheapest western restaurant in beijing? someone enlighten me. But if you wanna escape foreigners in beijing, i think the only place left safe is the southside.
March 22nd, 2007 at 7:29 pm
when i was in ireland i almost went to a mex restaurant in galway. i quickly reconsidered and went for some fish and chips instead. i did think that they could use a good fish taco stand there. i would clean up.
March 22nd, 2007 at 9:40 pm
Hehe. Reminds me of the time I went to a pizza place in Kyoto. I was sick of fish and *had* to have some pizza. Their pizza had to be the strangest damn thing I ever ate.
March 23rd, 2007 at 12:41 am
one of your girlfriends?
March 23rd, 2007 at 7:27 am
You should come to Buenos Aires, we have excellent Mexican food and it only costs about $5 to $7 for anything you want.
March 23rd, 2007 at 7:57 am
long chipotles :)
March 23rd, 2007 at 8:11 am
[…] ‘The Chairman - Maoxian’ (who lives in Beijing) says that the Mexican food in China bites . […]
March 23rd, 2007 at 8:30 am
pete: Yes, I have about a dozen girlfriends in total.
Curtis: Nice of you to visit (looking forward to reading your book). Next time I’m in Buenos Aires you can treat me to a $5-$7 meal (my favorite price range).
howard: There are no Chipotles here (yet), but McD’s is doing a roaring business here.
March 23rd, 2007 at 11:34 am
You’ll want to try a newer Beijing Mexican restaurant called Peter’s Tex Mex, this place rocks… There are two in Chengdu and they are the mecca for Mexican food in China. Here’s some info, looking forward to your entry about this place:
http://treehouse.ofb.net/go/en/place/182948
March 23rd, 2007 at 12:10 pm
Oyarsa: I’ve been to Peter’s Tex Mex (with my girlfriend Grace) … it was pretty good, they put a real effort into decorating the place and making “authentic” touches (like serving root beer in a frosty mug). Place was packed when we went so they’re doing something right (location next to the St. Regis doesn’t hurt).
March 23rd, 2007 at 4:35 pm
Nik: Sorry your comment was stuck in the spam filter for some reason.
Well, “knowledge transfer” is a difficult thing and the locals will revert fast unless really, really well trained.
Sure, Steak & Eggs is fine for what it is, but I’m a cheap bastard and don’t want to pay a premium for anything.
March 31st, 2007 at 10:56 am
“C. Maoxian said:
March 23rd, 2007 at 8:30 am
pete: Yes, I have about a dozen girlfriends in total.”
You OWE me an email on this one! I’m not letting Alex read your postings until I hear from you! ;))
Btw - I did get your email on the cost of raising a child. Boy, they couldn’t have hit the nail on the head more scientifically than that… sad thing is that we’ve already spent $$ on a number of things listed on that third tier list. will send you an email to tell you about our belt-tightening strategy though. :)
April 7th, 2007 at 6:42 pm
Is sad that instead of seeing the good points of international cuisine, the only thing that i read on the comment was all against the mexican resurant.
First at all, I am Mexican, and from all over Asia that i had been, this Fogoncito is the first MExican Restaurant with actually mexican food, I understand that u don´t like our food, or even better that the paint or even the waitress told u to don´t go up stairs
but i believe if u compare That shitty place as u refer, to ANY chinise cuisine, hahaha please come on, give me a break ?, are u kidding, and u are chinise.
ANything here that i am saying is not to offend anyone, eather the writer, but please, that ur girlfriend didn´t actually like u and dump u doesn´t mean that the restaurant was the worst that u have ever been, Please visit first a Mexican Restaurant in Mexico, and u will understand the same that i feel when i go to a Chinise Restaurant in my contry, Awful, too expensive compare to the price in here, Yes even for me is fucking expensive the fogoncito, but still is really good, But as far as i can see, u have never been overseas…
too bad for u
anyway
my warms regards,
oscar
and the Fogoncito is still better than la Niña in WudaoKou.
May 28th, 2007 at 9:55 pm
haha, none of you are 100% correct, 1st the spanish is not correct, it mus be “Mantenganse Lejos” or “Alejense”. “Estancia Lejos” is a bad word-by-word translation from english to spanish, but well, they got the idea.
About Taco Bell… I guess it would be Taco Bell is as good to Americans as Mc Donalds is to Mexicans, but if you really want to eat good tacos you must go to Mexico, don’t think Taco Bell must be taken as the standard, just read what happen to El Fogoncito in China - But I still need to try, cannot be as bad as the Chinese food here, I’d kill at least to eat some tortilla and non-sweet bread!.
Saludos from a Mexican living in China
May 28th, 2007 at 10:06 pm
And to Maoxian… I agree with my other “compatriota” mexican… u may being exagerating a little… 12 girlfriends???? mexican food in China too awful???
I know El Fogoncito is 100% mexican, they conducted a market research and other things before decide to invest in China. One thing is, if they want to sell in China it must taste good to Chinese, and maybe that factor is affecting your perception.
About the description of the place, it projects your anger against latino stuff or specifically against Mexicans.
Come one, man, give it a break, cannot be as bad as the local food here!
Try eating more Mexican food, chinese girls love us Mexicans (I have more than 12 gf), if you eat more Mexican food you can duplicate your numbers easily, hehehe.
Take this like a joke and relax, is not a war :)
Saludos desde Xiamen, China
Nestor.
May 29th, 2007 at 7:32 am
Nestor: Thanks for the correct translation; I’ll update the post.
June 27th, 2007 at 1:55 am
hi, i dont know if you speak spanish or not but what would you say if i distribute to you some really spicy salsa??
August 17th, 2007 at 9:18 pm
El fogoncito FYI is 100% owned mexican restaurant, and its a branch from Mexican big chain, so I am sceptical that they are not keeping their standards. As per your comments it seems you have never tried authentic mexican food (it has to be greasy) and also FYI in mexican food the so calleed fajtas do not exist…So Fake Mexican?? I think that the TEX MEX food you are used to is more fake…
And the way you talk about mexicans sounds like if they were your slaves,,,,who do you think you are??? Please respect nationalities and culture!!! And next time you make a comment about food, make sure you are an expert in the topic!!!!
August 21st, 2007 at 8:27 am
Mariachi Imperial will be visiting China (Beijing) on the second week of September ‘07. Please visit our website for details. We are pretty excited about this trip and looking forward to perform to all the public in China, specially to our Paisanos. Viva Mexico!
November 10th, 2007 at 3:01 am
Hi how are you guys?
I am Ulysses a Mexican from DF, actually studying in Guadalajara, and born in Zacatecas, but all my family live in the capital. I have some business in my mind guys; I am kind of a risk taking person. I will graduate from college this May 07. Therefore, I’m analyzing the idea to open a good Mexican restaurant in China; I would like to get in touch with some of you guys to visualize the things in china.
Have a great day.
Best regards
Ulysses from Mexico
Ulisesmejia2359@hotmail.com
March 2nd, 2008 at 11:55 am
Sympathize with Oscar’s comment on the quality of restaurants once they got exported. BTW no one will be expecting three-star michelin food from a chain restaurant, verdad?
But as a spoiled globe-trotter who was pampered with a week of haciendas the last time I was in México, I don’t agree with the statement that mexican food has too be greasy… However, have to admit that the market here in beijing is definitely not matured enough to take the really good stuff…
Guess no one will be surprised that I had to smuggle in some Don Julio 1942 and Cuervo reserva de la familia the last time I came back…
March 4th, 2008 at 3:55 pm
I am really dissapointed with the Mexican restaurants here, but if you are smart enough you can make Your own food, in Shanghai You can buy maseca,meat and some other essentials like avocado and real green lemons.
My wife and I live in taiyuan (Shanxi) since 3 years now and we cook our food at home You can easy make salsa if You know how to and they actually sell chiles jalapeños.
You guys just have to look for the stuff and You will find it. of course this goods are expensive but it is totally worth it to come home to have a real machacado or some quesadillas with salsa. if You guys are really into mexican food contact me and I will gladly tell You where to buy Your stuff.
regards
Antonio Cantu
March 4th, 2008 at 4:21 pm
antonio: Thanks for your comment … Is there any Mexican restaurant in Beijing that meets your standards?
It will be a happy day when all those ingredients are available in Taiyuan itself. :)
April 13th, 2008 at 2:28 pm
el fogoncito is truly horrible.
But i actually have the reason for so many discrepancies in reviews.
when they first opened they hired actual Mexican chefs to prepare all the food.
2 months later they fired all of the expensive Mexican chefs and tried to reproduce what was being made with their Chinese staff.
the food now is revolting and fake because they have tried to substitute the real ingredients with cheaper alternatives.
guacamole made fom a powder mix for example.
April 13th, 2008 at 6:03 pm
I heart: But I went when the Mexican chefs were still there (I think). :-)
May 14th, 2008 at 12:37 pm
Hola Antonio Cantu,
Te agredeceria muchiisssiiiiimmoooo me pasaras los datos de Shanghai donde comprar todo esto (maseca, jalapenios, etc.). Yo vivo en Xiamen desde hace 6 anios, soy de Cholul Yucatan y tengo que estar trayendo tortillas de Mexico con amigos que vienen de vez en cuando… ya te imaginas, los Jalapenios los tengo racionados a una lata por mes!!
He buscado en Internet y no encontrado nada, incluso se que Maseca puso la planta en SH, pero nunca he sabido donde comprarla.
Si me das los datos, veria la forma de comprar y ver si las tiendas me lo envian por paqueteria, y aunque como tu dices, mas caro, pero mucho mas barato que estar trayendolo de Mexico. Mi e-mail es nsulu@hotmail.com
And about the fogoncito, I agree, many Mexicans friends have told me bad experiencies… and specially if you are Mexican, dont think you will like it, I never been to there, but I guess, like Taco Bell (USA, not Mexican branch), they have to prepare to local preferences… so I bet it is sweet, and Mexican food is everything else but SWEET :)
Gracias por adelantado Antonio.
May 14th, 2008 at 6:03 pm
Bravo por los comentariosss!!!!!! amigosss mexicanossssssssss
June 4th, 2008 at 11:12 pm
Another Mexican in Beijing that gave Fogoncito a try.. I have to tell you, it sucks!!! it is NOT real Mexican food, and it isn’t a bit like “El Fogoncito” back home… I’d rather go to some other Tex-Mex restaurants (Mexican Wave, Peter’s) before going back to Fogoncito. Even tortillas were awful!!! I mean, how’s that possible? Mexican food is delicious!! and it should be the same in China… I understand they have to make it more ‘local’ so Chinese would like it… but it cannot loose the Mexican taste… or get a horrible tortilla; or the worst nachos… or a ‘crema de chile poblano’ with SO MUCH water in it!!! Didn’t try the pastor, it looked all dry, as if it had been in the trompo for ages!!! AND the coffee was awful, too!!! I had been told by my Mexican friends in China that Fogoncito was not good; and although my expectations weren’t set very high, I was still dissapointed. At least the Mexican waiter (from Colima, I think) was a nice guy (not the best waiter, I have to say)… I may go back for a Corona while listening to Mariachis, other than that I wouldn’t go back….
September 7th, 2008 at 12:17 am
Correction. There are Taco Bells in China. AT least, there is a Taco Bell Grande in Shenzhen. Host/hostess greets you with a giant sombrero and poncho yelling “Buenos Dias, Huanying guanling!” (no need to try to speak any other Spanish to them). Also, you actually get nice plates and silverware–It’s a fancy place! No guacamole though :(
September 7th, 2008 at 8:29 am
M: Interesting, it must be the first. I know the guys at YUM believe in bunching their restaurants in a single location in China (this is why you often see a KFC and Pizza Hut side by side here). I’m looking forward to seeing a Taco Bell in Beijing!
September 7th, 2008 at 1:31 pm
I went to El Fogoncito again on the weekend with 5 Mexicans. They like it and they never go to any of the American-run Mexican restaurants, I think you should give it another go. They had a Mariachi band playing too that were very good. Alternatively theres another place that does Mexican catering for their embassy, a little bit more traditional (www.garibaldibj.com)
September 7th, 2008 at 3:16 pm
Nik: Thanks for the news … I should give it a second chance since I went there very shortly after it opened and they probably were still working out the kinks.
September 7th, 2008 at 6:23 pm
hola amigos,creo que la comida del fogoncito es muy buena yo fui a comer y me encanto mucho,no entiendo los propios mexicanos que envez de apoyar a sus paisanos que vinieron a invertir aqui los critiquen y ablen siempre negativos sera por esa razon que mexico esta como esta,entones sera cierto lo del chiste de los cangrjos mexicanos?que apenas quieren salir adelante o para arribe y los mismos les dan el jalon ja ja ,bueno solo una cosa la comida del fogoncito es genial.
January 5th, 2009 at 2:59 pm
Though there surely is more seductively prepared and presented Mexican food in this world, it is absolutely sure that Fogoncito is the best in Beijing.
The others, Peter’s this and Tim’s that, appear to be lao wai interpretations and Mexican Wave and Luga’s appear to be owned and operated by Chinese.
None appear as faithful or professionally designed and executed examples of Arizona, Mexican, New Mexican or Texas regional food. All are much closer to the Cal-Mex product that is so popular in US.
Fogoncito is a unit of a fairly well thought-of native to Mexico tacqueria, ferchrissakes, it isn’t a fully realized Mexican cuisine restaurant though it surely is the best tasting and the most authentic I’ve eaten anywhere in China.
For example: Pork done on a vertical spit needs to be used rapidly to maintain its moisture and it surely is not used rapidly at the Wanda Plaza Fogoncito so it is often dry, reheated with a blast of open flame when widely separated orders reach the kitchen. The method is a recipe for not great product.
Corn tortillas at Fogoncito are very acceptible, though flour tortillas are not. However, flour tortilla is not a popular item in Mexico and flour tortillas served throughout the US are mostly dreadful.
I guess that lao wai that compare Fogoncito flour tortillas to those they ate in US make a comparison of two equally not great tortillas so who’s to say which is worse??? Obviously, the more familiar will win the comparison though that doesn’t make the tortilla any better, only more recognizable.
Wanda Plaza operators should figure out a better way to prepare and serve the AlPastor pork and flour tortilla though I doubt they will. All in all, I think Fogoncito is acceptible and surely is the best example of the food in Beijing or any I’ve eaten in China. The Wanda Plaza store is very likely a franchise owned by native Chinese.
People who buy franchises almost never are food or restaurant professionals and depend upon parent company skill, support and training to make their food edible.
Tasty is a giant leap forward from edible, and is a rarity in ANY food service business. There are very few franchise businesses that succeed in the effort.
From a professional’s point of view, the Wanda Plaza Fogoncito is the absolute dominator on the China Mexican Food landscape. Yes, I’d like it to be better and I’d also like it to have vestibles enclosing the doors so the restaurant it isn’t so cold on these frigid windy days. I doubt either will happen, and I’ll go anyway when I want the best example of the cuisine served in China.
January 5th, 2009 at 3:03 pm
@Jaramillo: Thx for the thoughtful comment… I’ve received so much hate mail (and even one death threat) because of this post that I sorely regret ever writing it. :-)
January 5th, 2009 at 9:30 pm
I noticed you got many heated replies and I am both surprised and pleased to see that “Mexican” food elicits so many comments from restaurant customers in Beijing.
Though “Mexican” food is well appreciated and a success in food focused cultures … there are more than 100 “Mexican” restaurants in Paris and both Germans and Italians are wild for the food … Beijing is not the only spot in which “Mexican” food is not often great.
Indeed, there is not much acceptable Mexican food served across the breadth of US … welllll, save for the obvious precincts of Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas … though of course most everyone from everywhere else across US think the food in their favorite spot is terrific, where and when “terrific” it is usually measured by the degree of “spicy” when “spicy” is usually measured by the quantity of garlic powder and rancid onions loaded into the food, NOT the aroma, flavor and nuance and the fruit known as chiles. OK, OK, it is also true that many judge the quality of their “Mexican” food by the diameter, weight and low cost of the burrito served in their hometown fave.
The best “Mexican” food is similar in character to the best Italian food: scratch preparation of fresh ingredients, clean, simply prepared and attractively plated and served in the style known as French.
The food can surely be paired with beer or frozen alcoholic drinks though the pairing is not the de rigueur event that most practice.
Most people believe the food has a “Spanish” accent and provenance though the fact that the food is described in Castellano flavored words is simply an accident of the fact that the aborigine inhabitants of the continent could not resist the diseases brought to the Americas by Urrupeans.
As usual, the vanquished adopted the language of the conquerors and the result is that many think the aborgine food is “Spanish.” It’s not.
Its very likely that most who serve “Mexican” food in Beijing and not as interested in great food as they are in delivery of food to a table that will induce diners to order or order another or several more alcoholic beverages.
The mindset is very prevalent in other that professionally designed and operated food businesses and its a pity … not fair to the delight that can be delivered by “Mexican” cuisine … that the practice is often the case. However, it is the case and the case is not limited to “Mexican” restaurants.
The practice is in every cuisine style and one simply needs to learn to either avoid completely or not expect much of the spots that do business in the drinking spot profile.
February 25th, 2009 at 8:10 pm
Did you guys know that Mexican Food is ranked in 2nd place after french?!?!, Dont judge if you dont know the real thing.
Monterrey, N,L
February 26th, 2009 at 9:55 am
Patricio,
This is the thread that Mexico won’t let die.
I ate at El Varietal in Monterrey in 08/2008 and made the mistake of ordering duck. It was on the menu. And I love a good confit de canard, but as my “regia” wife advised me, eat only Mexican food in Mexico. The waiter questioned my choice, and my wife said: “huacala.” Her plate of arrachera was excellent though, as was everything else. Saludos.
February 26th, 2009 at 10:05 am
@Anthony: The thread gets much Google love, like so many of my post titles that are statistically improbable, such as this one.
February 26th, 2009 at 10:12 am
@ Maoxian: One post I did on “Madoff needs a spanking” a couple of months ago, to this day gets regular traffic from Google and various search engines.
But half the terms entered by visitors are for such things as “bondage intense spanking” or “spanking my ____” Yes, my blog entry turned up top 10 at some point in various “seedy” search results.
Ironically, a few of those hardcore visitors are now daily return visitors.
February 26th, 2009 at 10:17 am
@Mr Risk: Yes, I should make use of more risque language, more posts about the Bombay SenSEX maybe, but frankly I have no idea how anyone other than my dozen loyal readers gets here… I assume everyone else is searching for improbable phrases and I’m the number one hit. I have a ranking that these scummy “optimizers” would die for and yet I do nothing with it… wasted ASSet.